Columbia River
The Columbia River is the largest river in the Pacific
Northwest and, with a length of 1,953 kilometers (1,214 miles), is the
15th longest in North America. From its source at Columbia Lake at an
elevation of 809 meters (2,650 feet) in Canada's Selkirk Mountains it
first flows northwestward through eastern British Columbia, then turns
southward toward the United States. It crosses the US-Canadian border
north of Spokane, Washington, then flows southward across central
Washington where it is joined by the Snake River, which drains
southeastern Washington, eastern Oregon and southern Idaho. The
Columbia then turns westward, forming the border between Washington
and Oregon, flows through the Columbia River Gorge in the Cascade
Mountains and on to its mouth at the Pacific Ocean near Astoria,
Oregon.
The Columbia River ranks sixth in North America in terms of
runoff after the Mississippi, MacKenzie, St Lawrence, Nelson, and
Yukon rivers and is ranked 32nd among rivers of the world in area
drained. The major tributaries to the Columbia are the Kootenai and
Flathead/Pend Oreille rivers, which drain southeastern British
Columbia, western Montana, and northern Idaho, the Snake River which
drains western Wyoming, most of Idaho, eastern Oregon and southeastern
Washington, and the Willamette River of western Oregon.
Columbia River Basin
The Columbia River Basin is bounded principally by the Rocky
Mountain system on the east and north, the Cascade Range on the west,
and the Great Basin on the south. The basin area includes 3,000 square
miles of waterways and lakes, of which 2,500 miles are within the
United States.
To the west of the Cascade Range, the Columbia River is
joined by the Willamette drainage and begins a transition to the ocean
tidal reaches. Salt water intrusion into the Columbia River estuary
reaches about 23 miles upstream from the mouth. The effects of tides
upon the flow rate and level of the river are felt up to Bonneville
Dam, river mile 146.1. Ocean influences also dominate weather patterns
along the western slope of the Cascade Range as the majority of
precipitation in the western portion is in the form of rainfall during
the winter months.
Most of the annual precipitation of the Columbia River Basin
is concentrated in the winter months with the bulk of the
precipitation falling in mountainous areas as snow to be stored in
deep snowpacks awaiting the warmth of spring for its release. As a
result, winter streamflows are generally low with high sustained
runoff flows occurring in the spring and early summer. This runoff
pattern of the Columbia River exemplifies a major seasonal
maldistribution of flow with about 60 percent of the natural runoff of
the Columbia occurring during the months of May, June, and July. The
Columbia has an average annual runoff at the mouth of about
198,000,000 acre-feet (275,000 cfs) making it second only to the
Missouri-Mississippi River System in the United States (611,000 cfs)
in average annual runoff. The Canadian portion of the basin generally
contributes about 50,200,000 acre-feet annually, or about 25 percent
of the basin total.
During late
Miocene and early Pliocene times, one of the largest
basaltic lava floods ever to appear on the earths surface engulfed
about 63,000 square miles of the Pacific Northwest. Over a period of
perhaps 10 to 15 million years lava flow after lava flow poured out,
eventually accumulating to a thickness of more than 6,000 feet. As the
molten rock came to the surface, the earths crust gradually sank into
the space left by the rising lava. The subsidence of the crust
produced a large, slightly depressed lava plain now known as the
Columbia Basin (Plateau). The ancient Columbia River was
forced into its present course by the northwesterly advancing lava.
The lava, as it flowed over the area, first filled the stream valleys,
forming dams that in turn caused impoundments or lakes. In these
ancient lake beds are found fossil leaf impressions, petrified wood,
fossil insects, and bones of vertebrate animals.
During the early stages of the Columbia Basin formation,
granite rock was slowly created by heat and pressure deep in the crust
of the earth. Then the crust was uplifted, exposing the granite,
creating mountains similar to the Okanogan Highlands north of Grand
Coulee Dam. Forty to sixty million years ago the formation of the
outline of the Columbia Basin was complete. The land had subsided
below sea level, and a large inland sea had formed. The land was again
uplifted and then, 10-15 million years ago, was flooded with
volcanic lava. The boundaries of the flood lava were located in
almost the same position as the former seashore. Many layers of lava
were needed to build up to a 5,000 feet (1500 meter) thickness and
form the smooth surfaced Columbia Plateau.
During the Ice Age, the old Cascade Mountains were also formed.
Their outline still remains on the western slopes of the Cascades. The
uplifting mountains were not able to block the flow of the Columbia
River completely, and a deep Columbia River gorge was formed. Near the
end of the Ice Age the volcanoes of the high Cascades rose to
elevations of 14,000-15,000 feet (4000-4500 meters). Older volcanoes,
such as Mt. Hood and Mt. Rainier, were sculpted by glaciers of the Ice
Age; others such as Mt. St. Helens remained unsculpted, retaining
their original volcanic form.
Eighteen thousand years ago the Columbia Basin was nearly covered
by floodwaters when an ice dam at Lake Missoula in western Montana
broke. Large boulders were strewn near the outlet of the Lower Coulee
(Lake Lenore). Other boulders were carried in icebergs as far as
western Oregon. The floodwaters were 800 feet (250 meters) deep near
Pasco and 400 feet (125 meters) deep at Portland. After the Ice Age,
the Columbia River returned to its former channel. The channeled scab
lands and large coulees that had been formed were left stranded
500-1600 feet (150-500 meters) above the present river floor and serve
as a constant reminder of some of the most unusual episodes in
geologic history.
Mt. St. Helens and the Columbia River
On
May 18, 1980, Mount St. Helens violently erupted. During the
eruption, a massive
debris avalanche, moving down the north side of Mount St. Helens,
was blasted into the North Fork Toutle River valley, depositing
approximately 3 billion cubic yards of material in the upper 17 miles
of the valley. Mudflows quickly developed in the South Fork Toutle
River and in the Lewis River tributaries of Smith Creek, Muddy River, and Pine Creek. At least 11,000 acre-ft of
water, mud, and debris were deposited in Swift Reservoir
between 9 a.m. and noon on May 18. A massive mudflow originated on the
debris pile in the North Fork Toutle River valley and caused
widespread destruction as it moved downstream through the Toutle
and Cowlitz Rivers. Considerable deposition occurred in these
river channels and in the channel of the Columbia River, which
was closed to shipping for about 1 week. Channel capacity of the
Cowlitz River was reduced from 76,000 to 7,300 cubic feet per
second (at the flood stage of 23.0 feet). Dredging of the shipping
channel in Columbia River commenced shortly after May 18, and
dredging was started in July in the lower reach of Toutle River
and Cowlitz River.
Captain Robert Gray
George Vancouver (1758-1798) was born
in England and entered the Royal Navy in 1771 upon receiving an
appointment from Captain James Cook. He accompanied Cook on his voyage
around the world in 1772-74 and served as a midshipman on Cook's
explorations along the West coast of North America. Vancouver was
promoted to commander of the ship Discovery in 1790. The next year he
was sent on a mission to receive the surrender of the Spanish post at
Nootka Sound in present-day British Columbia, to survey the coast of
the American Northwest, and to search for a water connection to the
eastern part of the continent. Equipped with the best navigational
instruments of his day and well-trained personnel, Vancouver spent
three years surveying the coast. Vancouver, like Cook before him,
initially missed the Columbia River on his voyages along the coast.
The commander of the Discovery refused to believe an American sea
captain in the vicinity who told Vancouver that he had tried to enter
the mouth of a great river. A few weeks after this meeting, the
American captain, Robert Gray, returned to the scene of his
previous efforts and on May 12, 1792, became the first explorer to
enter the Columbia River by crossing over the sandbar that blocked its
mouth. Gray sailed about 20 miles up the estuary of the river, traded
with the Indians for a few days, and then left after drawing a chart
of the mouth of the river. He named the river the Columbia after
his ship, and claimed it for the United States. George Vancouver
obtained a copy of Gray's chart from the Spanish governor at Nootka
Sound and sailed to the mouth of the Columbia River in October 1792.
He was unable to get his flagship Discovery over the sandbar, but Lt.
William Robert Broughton succeeded with his smaller ship, the Chatham.
Broughton advanced nearly 100 miles to a site opposite present-day
Portland, Oregon, which he named Point Vancouver. To the east he saw a
majestic mountain peak which he named
Mount Hood.