The Road to Iguacu
Iguassu Falls Nat'l Park
Macuco Boat Safari
Iguazu Falls Rest.
Foz Tropicana Aviary
6 - Rafain Churrascaria
7 - The Road to Noronha
Fernando de Noronha
9 - Sueste Bay Snorkeling
10 - Farewell to Fernando
11 - The Road to Rio
12 - The Hippie Market
13 - Sugar Loaf Mountain
14 - Copacabana Palace
15 - Too Much Gluten
16 - Botanical Gardens
17 - Buzios
18 - Copacabana
19 - Ipanema Beach
20 - Plataforma Show
21 - Corcovado Mountain
Travelogue Main Page
Introduction to Brazil
Impressions of Brazil
Rio de Janeiro
Fernando de Noronha
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COVE (GOLFINHOS BAY)
BRAZIL TRAVELOGUE - DAY
4 - FERNANDO DE NORONHA BRAZIL
Dolphin Cove - Fernando de Noronha
the phone rings - I answer it and the guy on the other
end says something in Portuguese about coffee.
I ask him if he speaks English, already knowing the
answer. I hand the phone to Sandra to see if she
fares any better, and she says "Si" a few times, hands
me the phone and shrugs. We assume it was asking
if we wanted breakfast - it came included with the room,
and we had heard other people outside (there are only
5 rooms), so we deduce that we were probably the last
ones to come and eat, so they wanted to see if they
could clean up.
ourselves and head over to the restaurant, where we
have our first cup of real coffee since coming to Brazil.
Ahhhh. That hits the spot. There are
also some cold scrambled eggs, some cold meat of
some kind, many types of breads and pastries, and
fixings to make yourself a sandwich and a sandwich
maker to toast it. There are a few different
kinds of tropical juices, and some homemade honey,
as well as cereal and milk. The eggs are
nasty, of course, being cold, but the other stuff is
breakfast, we take a cold shower, and hop in our
dune buggy to explore the island. The weather
is in the high 80s and bright sunshine. Absolutely
beautiful. First we head down to the end of the
road past the airport to see Turtle Cove.
We are struck by the beauty of the beach and the
water. Absolutely wonderful - much like the
Caribbean. People are already snorkeling at
9:00AM. Next we drive down a bumpy rock
road to Dolphin Cove, where there are historical
sites (ruins of old forts which are present throughout
the island) and access to the beach, as well as
Access to Dolphin Cove
ends about a half-mile from the viewpoint, so we
hoof it down the rock-lined dirt trail through the
scrub. Emerging from the scrub we are greeted
with sweeping vistas of the azure sea and brilliant
white sand beaches below (no dolphins though).
Access to the beach far below is by a series of
ladders, set in narrow cracks in the rock.
Sandra says "no way", and we head back up the path
after a few photos.
a few more beaches, each down terrible rock and dirt
roads, each as beautiful as the last, then stop and
have agua de coco (coconut water) for a few minutes
at one of the food stands near the beach. A guy
comes up and asks us in his limited English (after consulting
with several other people to make sure that was how
you said it) if we like fishing - I say I don't know
- and then he goes over and starts barbecuing up a fish
(ah...not fishing, but do I like fish).
Sandra enjoying Agua de Coco at Dolphin Cove
we drive through the downtown, taking photos and exploring
the beaches, each down a rocky road worse than the last,
checking out the local eateries. Then it's on
to the port at the far end of the island to get some
gas at the island's only gas station at a cool $4.00BR
per liter (about $8.00 per gallon). We had asked
the guy we rented the buggy from about gas, and thought
he had said to just fill it and that it took 5 liters.
So, we ask them to fill it. $145BR ($70USD) later,
we figure out the hard way that he probably said it
only has 5 liters in it, so to put that much back.
Of course, the gas gauge doesn't work, so we had no
way of knowing.
try to give them $20BR thinking it says $14.5BR not
$145 and they (not speaking any English) try to
explain to us that it is not enough. Finally
we figure it out and with a pain in our stomachs,
give them the money and move on down with our now
full tank of gas spewing fumes at us as we drive.
Wow - $125 for one day's rental of a broken-down
buggy - we're kicking ourselves at this point.
out to the port and check out a few more ruins of old
forts and cannons, and take some photos of the marina
below. There are a few restaurants here with nice
ocean views, and also maybe three dozen boats or so,
mostly scuba diving boats. It's almost time for
our afternoon dive now, so we head back to the Pousada
where we'll be picked up by Atlantis in about a half
5 minutes later, the phone rings, and a lady says something
in Portuguese - what I don't know. I tell her
I don't speak Portuguese, and I hear her tell someone
what room we're in. Two seconds later - a knock
on the door - Atlantis Divers here to pick us up.
We compare watches, and he explains that the time is
one hour later here than in Recife where we set our
watches. Crap! No wonder the breakfast guy
called us - breakfast closed at 9:00AM! So, we
throw on our swimsuits and run out the door.
shuttle in the open-sky back of a delivery truck,
along with a couple from London and a Brazilian guy.
I forget which fort this
is now. We saw several.
Getting Ready to Dive with Atlantis Divers
happy to see one other person on the whole island NOT
wearing a Speedo besides me. We arrive at the
dock, and the dive shop asks if we want underwater photos
or a video - we say yes, and everyone BUT us loads onto
the boat and goes off with the video guy. We are
Advanced divers, so we share the small, fast boat with
only the Brazilian, the divemaster and the captain.
The other group of 20 or so people goes off in the big
catamaran. There are to be no videos or photos
on our trip, since the only guys with cameras went on
the other boat.
By the time
we have our gear ready, we're at the first dive site
- known as "Bird Shit" according to the divemaster,
who speaks good English.
at the white rocks below the bird-filled trees and
see that it is aptly named. We take the
Scuba Diving report to read about our dives. Otherwise
continue with our travelogue below:
Continue to Day 5 -
Fernando de Noronha
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